This was submitted to the BC Land Rover Mailing List by David Walker.
There are a number of small details and areas to paint. Here are some of those and ideas for detailing your Land Rover. Paints vary substantially in their use and finish. Some of the paints I use (and have used in other projects) are as follows:
Automotive Paint, Enamel - can be brushed, but is best sprayed. Needs primer underneath often. Very hard, glossy finish that could be flattened.
Marine Paint, Polyurethane Enamel - very good brushable paint, can also be sprayed well. Tends to "stick" aggressively to most materials. Hard, glossy finish. Interlux Brightsides is a great product and their Hatteras Off White matches Limestone well.
Rust Paints, Enamel - good, inexpensive brushable paint. Loads of additives and nearly never needs primer. Tends to stick quite well, even to some "contaminated" surfaces. Medium hard to medium soft surface that tends to loose gloss with time.
Hammerrite, Enamel - all the same characteristics of rust paints, but looks "textured". Can also get in smooth.
Polyurethane, Clear Exterior "varnishes" - good brusahability. Good for bringing out the shine of a paint, adding depth or protecting exposed metal (badges and such). Medium hard to medium soft finish with varying gloss, depending on product.
Laquer Paints - good brushable paints. Use on cleaned rubber. Good to fair gloss that fades. Also comes in a clear coat spray.
Remove and strip the Land Rover badges. The idea is that you want black paint as the background, while leaving exposed aluminum letters. Clean them well with a chem wash. There are two ways I have found of painting them:
1) paint the entire emblem black them wipe it with a dry ridged cloth so that all the raised areas are left exposed aluminum. This technique has the disadvantage of doing a sloppy job at times.
2) paint the areas with a fine brush and "work" the paint into the small areas with a sharp toothpick (an old modeling tech.).
I like to use a high quality marine enamel such as Interlux Brightsides (you can use this for other areas also). I do not recommend using the "rust" paints for this project. Clear coat to protect with polyurethane if you wish.
This is a messy job, if the body is on the frame (how most of you will do it). The best thing, is that you can do a section at a time. I usually divide it into four sections - in front on the wheels, behind the wheels, between the wheels passenger side and between the wheels drivers side. I like using the rust paints or Hammerrite for this, you want a "softer" paint to absorb road abrasion. Go to the car wash and degrease the frame, use the cans of engine degreaser. Wire brush the section that you are going to do. Brush away (or blow) all the dust. Paint with disposable brushes, latex gloves and a shirt that is scrap. Start furthest under and highest up. Do not load the paint up through the frame holes. Tomorrow put on a second coat. Done, for 10 years - or until the next show. Paint the outside of the rear member and the horns up front with Interlux.
This will help you not only make your engine area look nice, but will keep you attentive to drips, leaks and the overall appearance of your engine. I learned with Mercedes and Porshes, a clean engine is a healthy engine. Go and degrease the engine, do it well, take extra towel to dry the distributor so you can drive home. Paint the following areas, with:
| Air Cleaner, | Hammerrite silver, remove and spray. |
| Engine Block | Rust enamel, use acid brushes (available at marine or hardware store). |
| Radiator Top | Interlux or other gloss marine paint. NEVER paint the fins of the radiator. |
| Intake and Exhaust | High temperature silver. |
| Generator | Gloss black marine. |
That should get most of it looking pretty nice. Do you want to show off your engine (or sell your LR)? With the clean engine, not necessarily newly painted, get a can of clear acrylic enamel, gloss. Spray your entire engine, hoses and wiring - everything. It will look great for about three months, then it wears off. Try this and you will be truly impressed, even with an old engine.
Do not paint this yet, paint on the trim is the radical surgery after all else has failed. Try this first. Use the 3M Scotchbrite pads for dry buffing the trim, I like either the gray or burgundy pads. Is your trim really oxidized or showing rust? Use the pads with vinegar. Wax after you are done. If you want to paint and have tried the above buffing with no positive results, then... Degrease and clean your trim with a chem wipe. Paint it (gulp) with Hammerrite silver. I will look a little more like galvanizing if you tip the brush across the paint in a few places.
You can seal rusted metal with 3 coats of marine varnish, and it looks pretty neat also (good for the capstan or transmission brake). Transmission, transfer case and overdrive can all be painted in place with silver Hammerrite. Paint the shift knob numbers with a sharp toothpick, protect with 2 coats of clear varnish. Use 2 coats of marine varnish on the shift knobs and steering wheel to give them that new part look. Paint mirror shafts with Interlux. Paint the door handle grip itself with "liquid electrical tape" a sort of rubber. Paint the dust caps and area with Interlux. Paint those letters on your mud flaps with a Laquer paint, clean the rubber prior with Laquer thinner. Of course, if you use any of these tips, please vote for my vehicle at the shows! I hope that this helps all of you in some way, from the parking lot rebuilder (makes it easier to paint the frame!) to you.
If you have any questions email me
David, at wahooadv@earthlink.net
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