Where is the FPR on a '95 RR County LWB 4.2?

[Discovery]

Hello all, I've been enlightened to search for a fuel pump relay in my '95 Classic with the 4.2. I've been having several issues with the RR (... who isn't) with trying to fire 'er up! Firstly the starter began to weaken on me, so I got that re-built and paired it with a brand new Interstate. The motor is cranking completely fine, so that's done. There wasn't fuel getting to the motor, and I had figured it was the fuel pump, and replaced that entirely. That hadn't solved my issue, as there isn't power getting to the pump. The fuel level gauge works when plugged in, but I hear no buzzing, or feel the pump is working. Even the older one was doing the same. Now, it leaves me with the electrical part of this issue. The harness connecting to the pump seems to be in good condition, no signs or corrosion, or breaks top and bottom. I'm going to get the meter on it to confirm as I'm going off a hunch.

Some research is leading me to believe that the fuel pump relay could be faulty. So that brings me back to my original question; where is located on a '95? Other forums aren't too good with describing the location, and some are saying it's under the passenger seat (which seems to me is the pre '94 models). I've checked, and I see two yellow and one green Siemens relay, that are identically placed like the drivers side (except that there is one blue and two black Hella relays under the drivers seat in addition). No Bosch brown/metal relay. I've taken apart the passenger side kick panel, and I see about 5 relays under there. Majority are yellow, black and one green. However, this is one plug that does not have a relay attached to it, which I believe there should. It looks like a plug that would harness the 5-point relay. I purchased this car as a project from someone that couldn't get it started, and they also had that kick panel removed. Nothing looks like major tampering.

Am I looking at the right place? Am I missing something other than a potential relay that's been driving me mental? All the help would be greatly appreciated!

[punkinracer]

Now on mine the relay was under the drivers seat close to the inertia switch for the fuel pump, BTW have you checked that switch as well? Mind you mine is a '93. Try hard wiring the pump and see if it works without all that other crap. Remember 99 time out of 100 it is a bad ground!
Pat

[Discovery]

So just an update with where I'm currently sitting:

1) I've located the fuel pump relay to be on the passenger side, behind the kick panel. No issues there. All my fuses aren't blown either.
2) I've benched tested my new fuel pump, and it does work, and even the pump that was in it before I thought it was the pump hoping for an easy fix, has life. However, once plugged, and the ignition on, the pump is not buzzing whatsoever. I've spliced the white/purple wire and the ground that connect to the fuel pump and put direct 12V to them, and it turns the pump on. Meaning, the plug itself is not melted or knackered.

Still leaves the question as to why there isn't power :( I was rather stumped with the fact that even though I primed the fuel pump, and went to try and fire the engine up, it didn't start. It kept turning over with no life. I have a hunch that the fuel filter could be clogged and not allowing the fuel to get to the engine. I will be replacing that next. I'm beginning to lose faith with this Range Rover, and I'm trying my best to not just give up on it.

I really need some help with this car, as I'm not electrically inclined if that may be the issue. I'm hoping that someone on this forum can truly help me get this machine back on the road.

[punkinracer]

Don't give up, it's usually something simple. Check that the inertia switch has not tripped for some reason, it kills power to the fuel pump in an accident. It will be a switch under the drivers seat. check for power at the pump when the switch is on and off. Quick to rule out at least.
Pat

[Discovery]

True, and I agree. The intertia switch on the '95 specifically is actullay under the hood by the firewall, just like the later Land Rover's. It's the circular switch. It is pushed down, and I unplugged it to see if the plug is damaged, all is well. Generally, the condition of this truck is clean. it isn't rusted, no signs of major corrosion, that why it has me frustrated.

A freind of mine suggested I look at something called the Coil Amplifier, apparently they are known to coverheat and crap out. The truck has 310,000km's, and was sitting for 8 months before I picked it up. The previous owner says it was running, then went to start it, and it didn't, then just sat.

It was also mentioned that I look into the top end. When the ignition is in the on position, I see the valves moving up and down, so there isn't sign of a broken chain. So I'm eliminating as much as I possibly could.

[punkinracer]

I think you need to look at everything independently. Basically you need 3 things, spark fuel and air. Unplug the fuel line, turn ignition on, if you have fuel your good. The amplifier has nothing to due with the fuel, it controls spark. If you don't have spark that would be the first thing to check, they are pretty notorious for failing although I have seen a bad ground causing them to fail.
Pat

[Discovery]

You're right, I'm just reading all this information and I want to do it all at once. I know Discovery II's inside and out, but these older generation models seem to be a little more complex electrically. I should finish up with the power to the pump first, as that was the entire issue from the beginning.

[punkinracer]

That's one reason I pitched everything electronic and went with a tdi!

[Discovery]

Alright, so good news, last night I got the Rover fired up, and it runs really well! This is the first time in 7 months since I've heard it alive. Very satisfied with that noise. I ran direct 12V power to the fuel pump, and went to start the motor, it had a hard time firing up at first, as it kept turning over. I was stumped. I believed that the motor was not receiving fuel, so I checked the main fuel line that connects to the injector rail, and it was spitting out a good amount of fuel. Excellent. So that left me with spark. I looked at the distributor, but that was new since the previous owner installed that, I was guessing it may have been the Coil Amplifier, but that's buried in the distributor and I didn't want to get into that right away. I unplugged the main lead from the coil to the distributor to check for spark, and there was a healthy amount of spark igniting. So that phased out a bad coil, and bad amplifier. If I were to get fuel and spark, air was the culprit. I removed the air box, to inspect the AFM, it seemed to be okay, and the plug was good. I for whatever reason decided to crank the motor over, and to my surprise she burst into life! I presume my AFM is on its way out if this is the case, so I will be looking for an AFM for my 4.2!

It was fantastic, and I let 'er idle for awhile, make sure it doesn't overheat and such, and it was magnificent, no hesitation whatsoever. So now I feel like I'm many steps ahead, which is good, and I'm glad it isn't an extremely major issue. However, now I must track down why the fuel pump isn't receiving its own power provided by the vehicle, and not having direct influence. I honestly do not hear the fuel pump relay clicking, so I'm not too sure what to do with that information. I'm thinking of pulling the fuel pump harness out and inspecting it for any cracks (but I doubt that's the culprit).

:D

[punkinracer]

Great news! Ill look to see if I still have my old AFM from the 4.2, if I do it's your for the cost of shipping.
Pat