Dum Dum

[Greg S]

Dum Dum is the grey clay like putty that you can get in rolls with a paper backing strip. I use latex caulking.

[rick.m]

There is sealent caulking in rolls at any RV dealership. It comes in an oil base and a BUTYL RUBBER . The butyl is much superior as it wont loose its tension in hot warther, {i still think it will warm up????}. all the best rick.m

[nick]

Why not just weld it?
If you don't have a MIG, just have a shop do it?

[red90]

Umm, because they would be hard to remove......... The ability to quickly remove floor panels allow easy access to many components.

[Bill E.]

Nick ol' Buddy,
I know we'll have to cut you some slack for having the unfortunate history of owning Toyotas :), but the issue here with leaky series trucks, 90's and 110's is that the floor panels are alluminium (in english speak) and are bolted to a metal framework with very little expectation of holding in air or holding water out. Some sort of Goo is required to do the job of keeping your Landrover afloat or at least your feet dry when you are violating fish bearing streams :roll:

[nick]

Okay, that makes sense.
Thanks for the info.

In my mind there was just a hole on the floorboard.
My first thought was weld it shut and be done with it.
Now I see its more complicated than that.

What about liquid gasket. Would that work, or it the hole to big?
Silicon caulking maybe?

Cheers,
Nick

[red90]

It is not a hole Nick. The floor panels, tranny tunnel panels, etc.. bolt in. Try to think a properly designed off road truck... I know it is hard. In one of these types of trucks, people want easy access to the mechanicals. For this reason, all the body bits are bolted on for easy removal.

Can someone drag up a picture of a gearbox removal from inside a Rover for Nick?

Anyway, back to the question, I think the regular stick on weather stripping foam is the simple and easy way to go. You don't want caulking as that would make it hard to remove the panels and would require replacement when they are removed.

[nick]

It is not a hole Nick. The floor panels, tranny tunnel panels, etc.. bolt in. Try to think a properly designed off road truck... I know it is hard. In one of these types of trucks, people want easy access to the mechanicals. For this reason, all the body bits are bolted on for easy removal.

Can someone drag up a picture of a gearbox removal from inside a Rover for Nick?

Anyway, back to the question, I think the regular stick on weather stripping foam is the simple and easy way to go. You don't want caulking as that would make it hard to remove the panels and would require replacement when they are removed.

Okay, I know what you mean now.

Not sure about the properly designed truck comment though :)

Cheers,
Nick

[nakedbarra]

Well a properly designed truck would give you easily removable panels to allow the best access to components on and around the vehicle like access to remove a gear box from the top cause who likes laying on there back in trhe mud and grease to access the bolts and such what to remove and replace a gearbox?

For me thats smart as I have done my fair share of laying on the ground wrestling components, needless to say , all but the early range rovers dont have this luxury and I happen to have a roll in the mud vehicle but removable body sections makes sence to me.As my 80" Land rover I can remove the gearbox on my own totaly from above in no time.

[Rob]

Hi Nick

Seems like some of the members are equating rover-design and proper-design as being one in the same. Sure, series trucks and there newer bretheren have great access to the tranny and TX case from above by removing the floor panels, seats, seatbox and tranny tunnel. Then again, they HAD TO have good access from above in the early models because some lame-brain rover designer welded the damn crossmember under the tranny so there was no other way to get the thing out of the truck! Many folks have determined the rover wisdom to be somewhat flawed and cut the crossmember so they could remove the gearbox and such from underneath instead of tearing-out the whole inside of the truck.

As I see it, a properly designed truck should have a properly designed drivetrain that doesn't need constant surgery and disection.... yes it is nice to be able to work from above and stay out of the muck but it is even nicer to not have to fix it at all and get to play in the muck instead! My current rover (number 14 for me) is an 88 RRC and the transmission and TX case are pretty bulletproof so no need for the mechano set interior to get it the gearbox... maybe this is rover's version of evolution. Just because it is the rover made it does not make it the right or best way... that's why we have some many rover fans out there swapping in Delco alternators, Puegeot or other brands of diesels, Scout steering boxes, after market disc brakes, parabolic springs, lockers and a whole list of other upgrades.

Rob
88RRC

[Colin]

I use pickup top sealing tape from crappy tire, it's sticky on one side.

[Rovermachine]

I have yet to read all the posts here....but why not use a rubber seam sealer. You can buy them from Lordco and it comes in a chalking tube...easy to apply and is paintable if you have other ideas later. Or why not use a double sided foam tape. They come in different widths and it is easy to apply, long lasting, keeps the water out and will also limit panel vibration. Both products made by ProForm. Hope you find something that works for you.

[ANDYD]

I used 1/2" foam tape (adhesive on one side) on my 11a floor panels...it worked great.
One lesson I learnt on my next river crossing, its best to leave a couple of small gaps when applying the foam tape.
This is so when the river water pours into the badly sealed doors it has somewhere to drain out!! :shock:

cheers....
Andy :D