The Rover-Landers of BC

I’m in the process of replacing my series 2 bulkhead outriggers and have seen that the series 3 chassis has an diagonal angle iron brace added. Question is would it be worth while to install these - not sure about reason/interference?

With how they are installed, you shouldn’t have any chance of interfering with anything. They literally tie from the outrigger to frame across the corner where there isn’t anything to hit.

A ‘66 parts truck (along with a ‘60 parts truck and ‘64 project) don’t have them, while a ‘68 NADA 109 does as does a ‘71 NADA 88. Looks like the change was probably around ‘67, possibly using lighter steel and adding a brace to compensate.

I’m sure adding them will strengthen the outriggers and be a benefit overall, but how many were made and lasted this long without them, so probably not essential. I think it really comes down to if adding them will make you feel better then do it, but if you want to save the time and effort plus keep it how it originally was then don’t.

@ TimberPig Thanks very much for your insight. Still on the fence but leaning towards not installing braces 😁

Richards Chassis builds their Series 2a 88 and 109 A-C chassis models without the bulkhead outrigger braced to the chassis rails and their D-H suffix chassis models all with the brace. According to Clifton, C suffix chassis were built until April 1967 before being replaced with the upgraded D suffix chassis. They must have been added for additional structural rigidity.
TimberPig has pretty much addressed the issue of originality vs need.

Finally got around to fitting my Britpart bulkhead outriggers and it looks like I have a couple of problems.

1. Too wide - according to the drawings I've seen and my own bulkhead the center to center measurement should be 59-1/8". With the new DA2014's in place I'm getting 59-5/8"

2. Too tall - new DA2014's hang below the chassis rails by 3/8"

Just wondering if anyone has seen anything like this before?

I'm researching replacing vs repairing my chassis as well and I found this regarding Britpart outriggers over on LR4X4:

"I've had some good parts from them, the mudflaps for the series were okay. I had fuel filler cap seals that swelled up to twice their original size in contact with diesel.
Their outriggers do the job, but could be ever so lightly off in every direction.
Just sloppy work, missing holes, slightly too long, all stuff that doesn't demonstrate a commitment to quality."

It's a sample set of one, so take it for what it's worth. I'm aware of the hit and miss reputation of Britpart but I don't have any personal experience.

I hope it's something simple and I'm sure somebody with more experience will chime in shortly.

Good luck

Tal

Well, not much left to take off…except that stuck steering relay!

@Danger Zone yea Tal, there is certainly a lot of factors to consider in deciding to repair or replace.I guess as far as BrItpart goes you kind of get what you pay for. As far as my parts go, maybe they are in spec and because I have an early frame (1960) that’s why they don’t fit? This is what I would truly like to know. Even the bulkhead mounting holes are different diameter -original 1/2” Britpart 5/8” ??Anyway, one way or another I’m pretty sure those are the outriggers that will be going back on.

In the end I hope it will be a good decision to repair instead of replace. Besides what better things are there to do on a rainy day?

If it makes you feel better a replacement chassis is ~$7500 to a warehouse in Surrey and a 6+ month wait. 😔

Actually, now that I think about it I am pretty close to chopping up my 1960 109" frame. If you want it, you can have it! My outriggers are in good shape.

Wow, I thought a new chassis would be around $5k. LR prices have really shot up! I heard +30%!

Also, thanks for the offer for your outriggers but I hope I can make to ones I have work. It’s easier to take off material than to add it 🤷🏼‍♂️.

Question: do you know if the steering relay is supposed to come out on a 1960? Mine is in pretty good.
I would just leave it but I want to get the chassis galvanized when I’m done the repairs.

Croker talks about stuck steering relays in this vid.
Hope it helps.
Tal

Removing the steering relay was by far the most difficult job I ever did on my 2A. It was almost welded in the frame with rust. And if you decide to remove the relay guts, beware of the huge spring inside.

Thanks Tal, Harv for the inspiration...

Chris, looks like you went full Croker on that steering relay!

Haha! I was going to say I did a Croker on it.