Trick needed for rear bushing
Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 6:47 pm
Hi,
I'm doing the rear trailing arm bushing on my 1988 Range Rover. The left one, which was really worn out, came apart and went back together fairly easy. So I'm now on to the right one, specifically where the trailing arm attaches to the rear axle. After much trying to get the bolt loose I opted for the same method I had to use on the left side, a sawzall cutting through the nut and bolt on the outside end. After 20 minutes of cutting the nut is now off.
My expectation then was that the bolt would wriggle out quite freely like the left side did. However, this is not the case. Instead, it won't turn until I take an 18" long breaker bar and turn it using my floor jack as a lever — way harder than I could turn by hand. But after moving it about a half turn it looks like what's really happening is the inner bushing is frozen to the bolt and I'm now rotating the rubber between inner and outer bushings.
So, crap! I don't really want to apply heat yet, as it will just burn the rubber, make a big stink, and it isn't likely to free up the sleeve from the bolt as its gonna be too tight a space to heat up the right surface.
I was considering sawzalling the head off the bolt and trying to drive it through, or maybe stripping the end of the axle, including wheel, brakes, hub to give me better access to drive it through with a punch, but that's alot of tearing apart for just a stubborn bolt, and it may not come out with a punch anyway.
I'm soaking it overnight with penetrating oil. But if anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears.
Thanks, guys.
I'm doing the rear trailing arm bushing on my 1988 Range Rover. The left one, which was really worn out, came apart and went back together fairly easy. So I'm now on to the right one, specifically where the trailing arm attaches to the rear axle. After much trying to get the bolt loose I opted for the same method I had to use on the left side, a sawzall cutting through the nut and bolt on the outside end. After 20 minutes of cutting the nut is now off.
My expectation then was that the bolt would wriggle out quite freely like the left side did. However, this is not the case. Instead, it won't turn until I take an 18" long breaker bar and turn it using my floor jack as a lever — way harder than I could turn by hand. But after moving it about a half turn it looks like what's really happening is the inner bushing is frozen to the bolt and I'm now rotating the rubber between inner and outer bushings.
So, crap! I don't really want to apply heat yet, as it will just burn the rubber, make a big stink, and it isn't likely to free up the sleeve from the bolt as its gonna be too tight a space to heat up the right surface.
I was considering sawzalling the head off the bolt and trying to drive it through, or maybe stripping the end of the axle, including wheel, brakes, hub to give me better access to drive it through with a punch, but that's alot of tearing apart for just a stubborn bolt, and it may not come out with a punch anyway.
I'm soaking it overnight with penetrating oil. But if anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears.
Thanks, guys.