The Rover-Landers of BC

Bought my first Land Rover this summer & have a few problems.

Are these common problems & has anyone found remadies to them?

Doesn't like deep water nor washing the engine.
1. Hard to start & runs ruff after deep water crossing & pressure washing the engine. Runs fine after everything dries out.
My guess is the wireing conections as the Dist. Cap is dry inside?


Central door locks -
1. Can only un-lock with drivers side key, un-locking from other doors sets off the alarm.

2. Didn't come with a remote, did they all have remotes & if so how would you be able to get the code to activate/synq.

3. Locks stiff in cold, already broke key off in tailgate lock, now need to figure out how to get apart.

4. Not all doors unlock at once

Engine & Trans cooler lines leak
1. about 90% of my oil leaks are from these lines. The way they are made, they should never leak. Don't know if putting new lines would help?

Windshield washer tank has 3 pumps
1. 3rd pump I would guess is for the rear window, yet there is no nozzle at the back. The upper left hole in body has a factory rubber plug?


Sun Roofs
1. sometimes won't close unless you turn off key & then back on again?

I assume the engine problem when wet would be cured with new cap/rotor/wires/plugs, but that's just the usual suspects for me.

Central door locks -
1. Can only un-lock with drivers side key, un-locking from other doors sets off the alarm.

I have a Range Rover Classic and only the drivers door will activate and deactivate the alrm. As someone used a screw driver in the lock I have to use the remote to turn the alarm on currently.

2. Didn't come with a remote, did they all have remotes & if so how would you be able to get the code to activate/synq.

Might find one on ebay, then take it to a dealer to get recoded unless someone comments with a different solution.

3. Locks stiff in cold, already broke key off in tailgate lock, now need to figure out how to get apart.

Usually water gets in there so can be a bear! Perhaps some extra lubrication for colder temps would help.

4. Not all doors unlock at once

Its a Land Rover!! I find that sometimes the manual pulls on the doors get partially stuck, so have to go around and manually move them up & down a few times to get things reset. Also I find my drivers outside lock turns itself partially which creates a problem but then you are using a key so should not be as much of a problem There is also a master activator (drivers door I believe) which gets touchy and may need some attention. I would say LR electric door locks are right up there for being a PITA.

?

Windshield washer tank has 3 pumps
1. 3rd pump I would guess is for the rear window, yet there is no nozzle at the back. The upper left hole in body has a factory rubber plug?

Would one of the pumps be for headlight washer??


Cheers
Ted

With out a alarm fob central locking/alarm on/off all has to be done at the drivers door. Fobs aren't all that hard to come by (online) and aren't all that hard to program.

Poor running in damp conditions, check the plug wires and replace with "high quality" leads, forget the pretty yellow and blue wires they are mostly useless in my experience, get originals or jobbers are pretty good to.

I recently replaced just about all my leakin cooler lines with a mix of jobber and OEM lines and fittings, purchased mostly online.

Long time lurker here, yes the door motor for the door locks are always breaking. It's $180 from Landrover of Richmond, and $125 online. Took me 3 hours to change mine.

The oval manual found online, does tell you to remove the window frame, but you have to to get the old motor out.