Defender Split door Top

[Dave_F]

I'm looking for an exploded parts view for a 1991 (or about) aluminum military door top. I have last years Microcat but that doesn't cover any of the military trucks.

I need to replace the seals between the door bottom and top as well as the top window track. Problem is that I was trying to remove the top and ended up spinning the stud as it is solidly rusted/fused to the nut, as this is one of the places where the water was dripping through.

I'm trying to determine if the stud is or was ( :oops: ) captive, as in being welded or if there is a top nut?

On the plus side I replaced the windscreen to bulkhead seal, the two top hardtop seals as well as making new windscreen hinge gaskets. So I have been able to stop all of the front leaks (tested this week :lol: ) with the exception of the problematic door top.

Any help appreciated.

[red90]

It is in the military parts manual. Some parts are not available.... Have a look online, it is out there somewhere. If you can't find it, let me know and I can post it.

I'll also try and remember to look into some emails. There are cheap and expensive part numbers for felt...

[Dave_F]

I found it finally...but now have another question.

Are the studs used to attach the door tops threaded at the top or is there a captive (or not) nut.

I know that on the series truck it was spot welded to the door top...hoping it's not on my Defender.

anyone know...the parts diagram is unclear just states - MTC6223 Stud sidescreen to door????

[John]

Dave,

My brother (not a member of this firum) contributes this to your question ...

"On your website Dave F posted a question about defender door tops....
asking about the mounting studs. I believe they are all "thread in".
Atlantic British use to sell replacement stainless steel studs
( treaded both ends). Not sure what the stud threads into ... maybe
the aluminum of the frame, not sure

My two door tops i got from different sources .... they are original
equip. One was advertised "New" and the other as "new take off" ( no
relevance really) but they have stubs of different diameters. One is a
fairly close fit in the door bottom hole and probably leads to it
quickly seizing (rust) solid. The other has slightly smaller dia. and
less chance of seizing. Stainless may not be the answer .... just
coating with anti seize should be enough."

Today I happened to get the Atlantic British flyer in the mail and they illustrate a stainless door stud kit, p/n 9784. You can probably check it out on their site but it looks like the studs thread into the door tops as my brother indicates above.

[Bill E.]

Yes Dave, John and his brother are correct, they thread into the door tops. I replaced mine a few years back, they were heavily swollen with corrosion and I ended up having to brutalize them to remove them both from the door bottom sockets and the upper thread. Lots of Moovit and a good hammer and drift were needed.

[Dave_F]

Excellent News!!

I was worried that i had snapped a weld as I did on my Series III.

Thanks to John, Bill and the "brother".

Much appreciated. Now I just need to get a set of studs and new seals and I'll be leak free :lol: ...at least in the front cab anyway. :wink:

[red90]

Stainless studs are here: http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/custompa ... w_stud.asp

[Dave_F]

Pricey, but then what Land Rover part isn't :lol:

Interesting and useful mod on them.

Thanks