Allisport double thick intercooler tuning advice

[Dave_F]

So I recently installed a double thick intercooler for my 300TDi, in order to get a little extra oomph for pulling my new trailer.

What a difference. According to Allisport it takes the lump from 111bhp to 130bhp. It definitely adds some extra power but my question is tuning.

I did follow the instructions and rotated the injection pump boost pin as per the instructions, but feel that there is more that can be done to fine tune it.

Anyone out there done this or can recommend a shop to get all that I can out of the upgrade?

[red90]

If you want to go farther make sure you have an EGT gauge installed first.

How far did you turn the pin? Did you pull it out to see where it was before the change?

How are the smoke levels on and off of boost?

Do you have a boost gauge and know the peak boost?

[Dave_F]

If you want to go farther make sure you have an EGT gauge installed first.

EGT VDO gauge installed. Under heavy load up hills it has never climbed much above 9500f, and normal hwy driving with the trailer 6500-8500f

How far did you turn the pin? Did you pull it out to see where it was before the change?

Marked the original setting, and turned according to the Allisport recommendation...little less than a 1/4 turn clockwise.

How are the smoke levels on and off of boost? Without the trailer, relatively normal, pulling the trailer, good puff of black 1 thru 3rd.

Trailer is about 3200lbs loaded.

Do you have a boost gauge and know the peak boost?

....nope.

[Dave_F]

If you want to go farther make sure you have an EGT gauge installed first.

EGT VDO gauge installed. Under heavy load up hills it has never climbed much above 9500f, and normal hwy driving with the trailer 6500-8500f

How far did you turn the pin? Did you pull it out to see where it was before the change?

Marked the original setting, and turned according to the Allisport recommendation...little less than a 1/4 turn clockwise.

How are the smoke levels on and off of boost? Without the trailer, relatively normal, pulling the trailer, good puff of black 1 thru 2nd...little in 3-4

Trailer is about 3200lbs loaded

Do you have a boost gauge and know the peak boost?....nope.

Definitely extra grunt...particularly noticeable in 2nd. EGT gets hotter quicker but also cools down faster.

Also have the VDO coolant temp gauge with matched sender installed.

Pulling the trailer normal engine temp 195f and has gone up to a smidgen over 200f on a long climb.
Without the trailer always sits at 185f. I know the Danger Zone and would stop and let it cool down if I evr hit 205f

I know that I am pushing the Defender but until I sell the S1 it will have to do, so anything to optimize this setup will be advantageous.

[red90]

If you only get to 950 at sustained full throttle you have a lot left. 1300 is where you should back off of the throttle. Once your fueling is higher you may find you get higher temps one day and not the next dies to differences in winds and you will need to make sure you check the temps during sustained full throttle.

1/4 turn on the pin may be maximum. You need to see where it is actually at. You can pull it and have a look. Just turn to a spot where it will come up easily. The steepest slope pointing to the front of the engine is the maximum fuelling.

If it is not at max I would try some more and see what you get. Some people limit by smoke levels before EGTs. It depends how much you are comfortable seeing.

After that I would increase the main feeling screw. Under a tamper cover facing backwards at the rear of the pump. 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time and test.

[punkinracer]

I highly recommend fitting an EGT gauge before going too far, it is crazy how fast the gas temps will climb. Afterwards, do what Red90 suggest, do one adjustment at a time and check your results until you are happy.

Pat

[Dave_F]

If you only get to 950 at sustained full throttle you have a lot left. 1300 is where you should back off of the throttle. Once your feeling is higher you may find you get higher temps one day and not the next dies to differences in winds and you will need to make sure you check the temps during sustained full throttle.

1/4 turn on the pin may be maximum. You need to see where it is actually at. You can pull it and have a look. Just turn to a spot where it will come up easily. The steepest slope pointing to the front of the engine is the maximum fuelling.

If it is not at max I would try some more and see what you get. Some people limit by smoke levels before EGTs. It depends how much you are comfortable seeing.

After that I would increase the main feeling screw. Under a tamper cover facing backwards at the rear of the pump. 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time and test.

I'll check the pin to ensure the flat is facing the front of the engine. What benefit would I be able to obtain with a boost gauge?

Lastly with the Boost gauge what should I be aiming for?

[red90]

Mainly just to make sure you are getting the correct stock boost. Second, you could push it up a bit over stock if you want. It helps you add a bit more fuel without smoking.

The manual states "Maximum boost pressure .....0,93 - 1,07 bar (13.5 - 15.5 lbf/in2) measured at wastegate actuator ’T’ piece".

Another thing you can do is remove the plastic spacer that is on the boost diaphragm pin. With it gone, the pin can travel a bit more giving more fuel at peak boost.

[bf900]

This is very timely, as I have also finished installing a double core Allisport intercooler.

I've located the main power adjustment screw (to the rear of pump) - see image. However, there's a steel collar and red plastic thing that just spins. I've gently tried to turn the "turn screw" but it doesn't move. Is this is first and "easiest" fuel adjustment to make?

or..should I start with the smoke adjustment screw?

As the moment the truck is not smoking but there hasn't been any neck breaking power gains either :)

Any advice is appreciated.

I found this post (landRover UK Forums)

1 torx screw underneath tamper proof plug on top of pump (this just gives lower boost pressure to give better low down power)
2 diaphragm can be turned to allow more fuel (this can make lots of smoke if too greedy for more power)
3 star wheel underneath the diaphragm (adjusts the amount of pressure on the spring so boost comes in earlier)
4 screw on rear of pump with spot welded collar on (this is not recommended as engine can over rev and destroy itself,this screw gives more top end)

I take it...I should not mess with the spot welded collar? Just stick with torx screw and/or diaphragm?.

Thx

B

[red90]

Install an egt gauge first. Then rotate the boost pin to a higher setting and how it goes.

[bf900]

For sure. EGT gauge on its way, and it will be installed before any changes made.

When you mention "rotate the boost pin"...which one are you referring to? The smoke adjustment screw or the pin underneath the diaphram?

Thanks

B

[red90]

The pin under the diaphragm. When you open it up, mark the position it is in so that you know where you started and look at what profile is facing the front of the engine. The steeper the profile, the more fueling you will get. I would avoid the main fueling screw (the one under the anti-tamper cover) unless you do not get enough from rotating the boost pin. You should normally get enough from the pin.

It is good to have an audible alarm for the EGT, IMO. Sometimes it will go high because the winds are just the wrong way for the intercooler... On mine, they get higher with engine speed. At 2500 rpm, it is nearly impossible to get too hot, but at 3000 rpm, 30 seconds of full throttle and it will be too hot. Just keep this in mind when testing.

[bf900]

Thanks Red90. I appreciate the advice/insight.

B

[bf900]

Finally....

I was sidetracked by installing all new VDO gauges including the digital EGT gauge on the dash in front of the steering column.....but I didn't like it because I found the constant change in the display distracting.....so I moved my gauges into a MUD UK Full Size Pod.

Any way's... with the EGT properly connected and after several runs, I noticed my max temp was around 900F...and it took a bit of work to get it to register 900F. So...after much reading, I decided to very carefully open up the fuel pump and check out the diaphragm pin.

Sure enough, it was turned way down. If the max position of my pin is 3 o'clock...and my original position was 10 o'clock. I moved it to 12 o'clock...so a relative small movement. But man oh man...there is a difference in how the truck pulls in all the gears and on the highway.

On the same hill, under the same conditions, the EGT is now peaking at about 1000F. On the highway at about 110km it's showing about 700/800F with no black smoke.

What I did notice was my boost pressure is now showing 16 PSI (1.10 bar) as opposed to the manuals max of 1.04. Should I be concerned with this higher boost reading?

I know the "maximum" is 1300 F but I'm going to give it a while and try various hills before tweaking it some more. I suspect a steeper climb with people and cargo might inflate my current mx EGT.

PS: I also have a double core Intercooler installed from AliSport and new silicone Turbo hoses.

[red90]

The boost pressure should be fine. EGT is what is important. You just do not want to run continuously above 1300 F.

[bf900]

Perfect thank you. I'll continue to monitor throughout the summer and see if I need/want to open up the fuel pump again. I guess in general terms and overall...it's running hotter than it was.

[DaveB]

Just a couple of tips on boost.

Definitely you want to install a boost gauge before fiddling with it.

Boost can be easily adjusted by adding a small manual control, such as the turbosmart manual adjuster. I've used these on several diesels and they work extremely well. They are available at most shops that do tuning on Japanese cars.

mbc_tee_boost_blue_large.jpeg

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You can also cheaply experiment with boost by measuring the length of the wastegate hose and increasing it. Buy some jobber hose, and create lengths that are progressively 12" longer than the original and try them. Each length will slow down the time it takes before the wastegate kicks in, thus increasing the boost.

Thats my experience, you mileage may vary. Try at your own risk! :lol:

cheers, Dave