Broken Half Shaft

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obalme · #1 Post by **obalme** » Thu Jul 21, 2016 9:42 pm

Hi, we went 4 wheeling last weekend and as we turned the corner we heard a big crack. Well it turns out we broke the right hand half shaft in the front diff. We got most of the shaft out but the stub end is still in the differental (planetary). We have tried a magnet and pushing a rod through from the other end but no luck yet, are there any other tricks that we could try before we pull out the planetary.

Thanks in advance Oliver

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7319/27847976624_376e578226_z.jpg july 003 by oliver balme, on Flickr

red90 · #2 Post by **red90** » Thu Jul 21, 2016 9:48 pm

What vehicle and what diff? They are all a little different. Normally you need to pull the third member and then you can get a drift in and hammer the shaft out. How much is in the diff?

obalme · #3 Post by **obalme** » Thu Jul 21, 2016 10:52 pm

I have a 1987 defender 110, with a ten spline half shaft, front diff. All that is left in the diff is the splines from the half shaft. Which part is the third member ?
According to my workshop manual the front diff is the same for the 110 & 90

red90 · #4 Post by **red90** » Fri Jul 22, 2016 5:20 am

Okay. That is where they normally break. Remove the other half shaft and pull out the diff assembly (third member). You can then tap the end of the shaft out through the opening in the diff with a drift or long screwdriver. If all else fails you could remove the pinion gears shaft to hit it straight on but I've not found that necessary in the past.

Kelster1055 · #5 Post by **Kelster1055** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 8:59 pm

red90 wrote:Okay. That is where they normally break. Remove the other half shaft and pull out the diff assembly (third member). You can then tap the end of the shaft out through the opening in the diff with a drift or long screwdriver. If all else fails you could remove the pinion gears shaft to hit it straight on but I've not found that necessary in the past.

I think there's an outfit California that offers beefier axles using better steel for Rovers. Sorry - wish I could recall the name

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RichardV · #6 Post by **RichardV** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 10:41 am

Forbyn bros?

Kelster1055 · #7 Post by **Kelster1055** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 11:24 am

Forum Bros is correct Thanks Richard

http://www.forbynbros.com/10-spline-hig ... -vehicles/

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red90 · #8 Post by **red90** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 3:32 pm

Those are for Series trucks. This thread is discussing a 110. Various options if the OP was interested.

harv · #9 Post by **harv** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 6:21 pm

Has anyone tried these shafts? Are they really that good? Is the price $450 US per set of 4, or per axle? If it's per axle I can't imagine it to be worthwhile, but for a whole set it might be worth it, if they're good.

red90 · #10 Post by **red90** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 6:29 pm

They are for the rear axle of a Series truck. There is not much point as the 10 spline diff is not stronger than the halfshafts. You need a good aftermarket 24 spline diff with chrome moly 24 spline shafts to make any real improvement.

RichardV · #11 Post by **RichardV** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 7:59 pm

New replacement 10 spline series axles seem very weak so they are an option if you can't find NOS or are sick of twisting & snapping axles. I believe the price is for the rear axle only.

red90 · #12 Post by **red90** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 8:26 pm

But then you break the diff, which is a lot more work. Swapping shafts is pretty quick and easy.

IMO, it makes more sense to go 24 spline with a nice 24 spline diff like a Detroit or Ashcroft ATB. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk ... hafts.html Equivalent to $375USD.

RichardV · #13 Post by **RichardV** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 9:07 pm

I have wondered about transferring the weak spot, I haven't heard of too many cases of people breaking diffs using these axles...maybe the Maxi and Forbyn axles are stronger then the pattern axles but not so much that they bust differentials?

obalme · #14 Post by **obalme** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 10:11 pm

P.S.
We did finally did get a new half shaft form England, we will do an up grade at a later date, and ended up having to take the pod out to remove the broken piece. It would not come out the way red90 suggested :evil: and it gave me some peace of mind to know there were no stray metal bits let behind.

Thanks for all the advice,

Oliver

harv · #15 Post by **harv** » Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:08 am

I looked at the Ashcroft site. They sell the kit to convert to 24 spline, but it only seems to have the drive flange. Wouldn't I need to modify, or even replace the diff to make these fit?

harv · #16 Post by **harv** » Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:10 am

Forgot to write that mines a Series 2A, with standard diffs

red90 · #17 Post by **red90** » Wed Feb 22, 2017 7:11 am

Yes, you need a 24 spline diff. A good choice would be the Ashcroft ATB, IMO.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk ... t-atb.html

You need a spacer to fit the original 4.7 ring gear to any diffs designed for the 3.54 axles. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk ... -ring.html or you can spend even more money and get a heavy duty 4.75 R&P.

I would advise against using a stock 24 spline diff as used in later Defenders, Discoverys and RRC as they are not much stronger than the 10 spline one that is in there now.

My 7 cents, your mileage may vary.

harv · #18 Post by **harv** » Thu Feb 23, 2017 6:11 am

Thanks a lot for the info

The Rover-Landers of BC

The Rover-Landers of BC