Spark

[rainman101]

After replacing all electronics in my distributor I still have no spark. It has 12 volts to the coil. The ignition has been wired separately from the rest of the system. Any body have any ideas?

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[bsa_m21]

It helps to know what kind of vehicle it is and what model of dizzy (points/elect). :oops:

[rainman101]

59 88 in Landover. Electronic conversion was done before I got it

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[TimberPig]

Known good coil?

Has this had spark before since you have had it? Rewired and with an electronic conversion, with not knowing if it ever worked as it is set up makes it difficult to know if it is wired correctly.

Replacing the electronic ignition alone is also no guarantee, as it could be bad right out of the box.

You need to confirm you are working with good, functional parts, wired correctly, and working in the correct sequence and together, in order for it to work. If the coil is not generating the voltage, the distributor isn't correctly breaking the circuit, or the wiring is not conducting to all the right places, it will not spark. This is not a complex ignition system you are working on, so it should be relatively simple to find the problem, so long as you work methodically to ensure all parts are functioning in the correct order.

[Rob]

I had a similar problem with a 2A that had been retrofitted with electronic ignition. My problem was that 12 volts to the after market coil was causing it to heat-up and fail. The original Land Rover ignition coil had built-in resistance, for an aftermarket coil you may need and in-line resistor. Once I installed mine (it was for a 70s era Chrysler) the rover fired immediately. My recommendation is to get the installation manual and systematically check all of the components and wiring. See if it needs an in-line resistor but also check the other components as well. Depending on the EI system you have there might be a system indication light on it that will give you some clues but again, best to check with the manual. Hope this helps. Rob

[rainman101]

The coil reads 3.3 ohms across the pos and negative terminal. Right on the spec. The paperwork that came with the replacement pick up coil is just unscrew and replace the points. So no help there. I will try installing a resistor and see what happens.

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[Rob]

if you notice the coil getting hot with the ignition on but not running the motor that is a pretty good indication that you need an in-line resistor.

[bsa_m21]

Send a pic of the electronic kit in the dizzy. If we can identify it, we can get docs on how to wire it.

M

[rainman101]

Britpart replacement. Looks identical to the one taken out. //uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201807 ... 12b937.jpg//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201807 ... 455865.jpg

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[Rob]

The top of the rotor doesn't look to have any marks on it from what I can see in the picture. There should be a small polished "dot" where the spring loaded centre electrode (for the lack of a better word) comes in contact with the metal on the top of the rotor. I have had experience where the electrode has not come down far enough to contact the rotor. Check the clearance to ensure it is making contact.

[red90]

How is it wired up?

[rainman101]

Red wire to the positive side of the coil and black to negative. Hot comes directly from the battery and ground is grounded at the same place on the engine block as the battery

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[red90]

Ground? There should not be any ground wires. What wire are you talking about? You have the positive side of the coil connected straight to the battery? Why?

Have you checked that the rotor is spinning with the engine?

Have you checked for spark with a loose spark plug?

[mepham55]

Your electric ignition should be wired up like this. Also, you should move the black and red wires away from the rotor inside the distributor they could rub through the casings where they are now. Just pull them back through the grommet in the side of the housing and put a small zip tie around the rubber grommet to prevent them from being yanked out too much.

Matt

[rainman101]

Ground? There should not be any ground wires. What wire are you talking about? You have the positive side of the coil connected straight to the battery? Why?

Have you checked that the rotor is spinning with the engine?

Have you checked for spark with a loose spark plug?

It is set up with a toggle switch and an electric solenoid and push switch for starting while under the hood. Right now all the other wiring is disconnected to eliminate any issues from that end. At this point I'm thinking its cap and rotor replacement time.

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[red90]

It is hard to help as you are only answering some questions.

Have you put a spark plug directly on the coil to see if you get a spark? This will tell you if the coil, ignition module and wiring is working. If that is all working, it is a cap/rotor issue.

[rainman101]

Until you said putting spark plug on coil I wasn't aware that was doable. Will try that maybe tomorrow as 16 hr days don't give much time to do things.

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[rainman101]

Rotor turns, coil meters correctly, black wire hooked to - terminal, red wire connected to + terminal on the coil. New pick up coil in distributor. And no spark even from the coil wire. The positive terminal has 12 volts. Missing something ,

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[red90]

The only other thing is to make sure is that the module/distributor/engine is grounded. If that is all good then the ignition module is bad.

All that the ignition module is doing is dropping the black wire to ground. The current change across the coil causes voltage on the high side and you get a spark.

[Revor]

You might want to make sure that the coil is working. Remove the (-) negative lead from it and when the coil is powered up touch the (-) negative terminal to ground for a moment when you remove the ground connection the coil should generate the spark from its HT lead to the distributor. It is helpful to have a second set off hands and eyes to watch for the spark while tapping the - terminal.