Recently had my 300tdi rebuilt. I was instructed to not highway drive it for 8000km as a break in procedure. Is this excessive? That’s a lot of surface road driving! Lol. Any help appreciated
Stu
300 tdi rebuild break in
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Rob
- Greasy Fingers
- Posts: 762
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 12:37 am
- Location: Ladysmith
Re: 300 tdi rebuild break in
If it affects the warranty from the rebuilder then I'd do what they recommend.... 8000kms seems like a lot though. My experiences is easy driving for 500 miles i.e.: vary the speeds, no Jack-rabbit starts (if that is possible with a rover anyway), no running at sustained high-speed or under heavy loads. Change the oil and filter (as per the rebuilder's recommendations) after 500 miles and drive it like normal. Then again, I'm not the rebuilder so don't take advice from my experience if it might impede your warranty in any way.
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InterMechanico
- Little Wheel
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2020 4:53 pm
Re: 300 tdi rebuild break in
The most important things to remember when breaking in a new engine are to:
A) Fulfill your warranty requirements, and document the first 50 hrs of operation.
B) Idle the engine as little as possible for the first 50 to 100 hrs of operation. Idling produces lower combustion pressures inside the cylinder, and can prevent the piston rings from seating properly. This can cause excessive oil consumption and fuel dilution (with diesel) of the engine oil in extreme cases.
C) Varying loads for the first 50 -100 hours. As stated by your rebuilder, highway driving tends to require constant speed and engine load.
This last one is contentious
D) Do not heavily load the engine for the first 50-100 hours. I'm pretty sure this one is to reduce the likelyhood of catastrophic failure in the event that a mistake was made during assembly.
In the heavy equipment world of diesel engines, the rebuilders I deal with generally only care about the first rule; no idling.
The last engine I installed was a 475 hp Cummins N14, into an Ingersoll Rand 5" bore drill. The rebuilder asked me to load the engine as much as possible for 1 hour (with the compressor), and note pressures and temperatures during that time.
The following are those break in notes, used periodically as a baseline to aid in troubleshooting...
Note: The compressor installed on this drill is a 2 stage, 1200 cfm rotary screw type.
-200 psi represents a load of 240 horsepower
-300 psi represents a load of 300 horsepower
-21746 hours-
-extended crank to build O/P to 10 psi
-start engine, build O/P to 40 psi, shut down and inspect for issues - OK
-install muffler assembly and clamps
-start and run engine at idle (1200 rpm) for 5 minutes
-increase rpm to 1800, O/P reads 48 psi
-load engine with compressor - 200 psi constant bleed - O/P after 10 min reads 42 psi
-5:40pm to 6:10 pm
-reduce to idle, inspect - OK
re-set rpm to 1800, engage comp, constant bleed at 300 psi - O/P at 42 psi - temp constant at 140⁰ Fahrenheit (gauge reads low - 130⁰)
-6:10pm to 6:30pm
-shut down, check over
-coolant level - OK
-oil level - OK
-oil cond - Good
-noticed some oil seepage around head gaskets - wiped down
-start engine - O/P 36 psi @ idle (1200 rpm)
-increase engine speed to 1800 rpm
-engage compressor, set at 300 psi
-engine O/P 38 psi gauge/ 65 psi on dash
-engine temp 145⁰ infrared/145⁰ gauge
-6:50pm to 7:25pm
-unload compressor, reduce engine speed to 1200 rpm
-oil pressure 34 psi @ 1200 rpm
-7:25pm to 7:30pm
-shut down engine
-check over
-engine oil level and condition -
-coolant level -
DEC.14,2020
-21746 hrs start up/21750 hrs shut down
-7:00AM
-check oil and coolant levels- OK
-oil pressure normal, no leaks
-start engine, warm up
-tram machine to new drill pattern
-commenced drilling at 8:00am
-cooling system temp 160⁰ Fahrenheit
-O/P - 40 psi
-EGT - manifold surface - 750-800⁰ f
-check temps at 8:30am
-EGT - 800⁰
-coolant temp - 170⁰
-O/P - 38 psi
-check temps at 9:00am
-EGT - 845⁰
-coolant temp - 170⁰
-O/P - 38 psi
-check temps at 9:30am
-EGT - 800⁰
-coolant temp - 173⁰
-O/P - 37 psi
- Identify oil leak - LH rear of block - possibly originating from between block and flywheel housing. Notify Rebuilder.
- oil consumed during first 3 hours - <1 liter
A) Fulfill your warranty requirements, and document the first 50 hrs of operation.
B) Idle the engine as little as possible for the first 50 to 100 hrs of operation. Idling produces lower combustion pressures inside the cylinder, and can prevent the piston rings from seating properly. This can cause excessive oil consumption and fuel dilution (with diesel) of the engine oil in extreme cases.
C) Varying loads for the first 50 -100 hours. As stated by your rebuilder, highway driving tends to require constant speed and engine load.
This last one is contentious
D) Do not heavily load the engine for the first 50-100 hours. I'm pretty sure this one is to reduce the likelyhood of catastrophic failure in the event that a mistake was made during assembly.
In the heavy equipment world of diesel engines, the rebuilders I deal with generally only care about the first rule; no idling.
The last engine I installed was a 475 hp Cummins N14, into an Ingersoll Rand 5" bore drill. The rebuilder asked me to load the engine as much as possible for 1 hour (with the compressor), and note pressures and temperatures during that time.
The following are those break in notes, used periodically as a baseline to aid in troubleshooting...
Note: The compressor installed on this drill is a 2 stage, 1200 cfm rotary screw type.
-200 psi represents a load of 240 horsepower
-300 psi represents a load of 300 horsepower
-21746 hours-
-extended crank to build O/P to 10 psi
-start engine, build O/P to 40 psi, shut down and inspect for issues - OK
-install muffler assembly and clamps
-start and run engine at idle (1200 rpm) for 5 minutes
-increase rpm to 1800, O/P reads 48 psi
-load engine with compressor - 200 psi constant bleed - O/P after 10 min reads 42 psi
-5:40pm to 6:10 pm
-reduce to idle, inspect - OK
re-set rpm to 1800, engage comp, constant bleed at 300 psi - O/P at 42 psi - temp constant at 140⁰ Fahrenheit (gauge reads low - 130⁰)
-6:10pm to 6:30pm
-shut down, check over
-coolant level - OK
-oil level - OK
-oil cond - Good
-noticed some oil seepage around head gaskets - wiped down
-start engine - O/P 36 psi @ idle (1200 rpm)
-increase engine speed to 1800 rpm
-engage compressor, set at 300 psi
-engine O/P 38 psi gauge/ 65 psi on dash
-engine temp 145⁰ infrared/145⁰ gauge
-6:50pm to 7:25pm
-unload compressor, reduce engine speed to 1200 rpm
-oil pressure 34 psi @ 1200 rpm
-7:25pm to 7:30pm
-shut down engine
-check over
-engine oil level and condition -
-coolant level -
DEC.14,2020
-21746 hrs start up/21750 hrs shut down
-7:00AM
-check oil and coolant levels- OK
-oil pressure normal, no leaks
-start engine, warm up
-tram machine to new drill pattern
-commenced drilling at 8:00am
-cooling system temp 160⁰ Fahrenheit
-O/P - 40 psi
-EGT - manifold surface - 750-800⁰ f
-check temps at 8:30am
-EGT - 800⁰
-coolant temp - 170⁰
-O/P - 38 psi
-check temps at 9:00am
-EGT - 845⁰
-coolant temp - 170⁰
-O/P - 38 psi
-check temps at 9:30am
-EGT - 800⁰
-coolant temp - 173⁰
-O/P - 37 psi
- Identify oil leak - LH rear of block - possibly originating from between block and flywheel housing. Notify Rebuilder.
- oil consumed during first 3 hours - <1 liter
-
Roadqueen17
- Worm Gear
- Posts: 183
- Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2017 5:16 pm
- Location: Burnaby
Re: 300 tdi rebuild break in
Recently had a rebuilt 300Tdi installed in my D90 followed the recommended break-in procedure and have no problems now have 2000km. Drove the back roads of Fraser Valley and easy to accumulate kms and go thru the gears. Oil and filter changed at 500km.
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Roadqueen17
- Worm Gear
- Posts: 183
- Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2017 5:16 pm
- Location: Burnaby
Re: 300 tdi rebuild break in
Should also mention to have the valve clearance checked after 1000km.Roadqueen17 wrote: Sat Mar 13, 2021 8:18 am Recently had a rebuilt 300Tdi installed in my D90 followed the recommended break-in procedure and have no problems now have 2000km. Drove the back roads of Fraser Valley and easy to accumulate kms and go thru the gears. Oil and filter changed at 500km.