Suspension +2" travel question

[HeadDamage]

Ok, I might be dumb but when I read about +2" shocks for the 90 does that mean they have 2" more travel through their range of movement or are they just 2" longer compressed and extended? If it is the latter I assume I would have to use longer bump stops to stop them bottoming out? If this is the case then would lowering the shock mounts and bump stops 2" also get the same result? Sorry if this has been addressed before but I've not been able to find this with the search function. Thanks.

[DaveB]

In my experience, the +2" shock is required with a +2" lift, for example OME springs, or spacers. If you use spacers, you only need the extended shocks on the rear, at least on my Disco II, although I think this is the case on other trucks as well. Basically it is referring to the fully extended length, and the fully compressed length becomes approximately 1" longer as a result. So, for example, if your shocks measured 12" compressed and 23" extended, they will now measure 13" compressed and 25" extended.

When I did the spacers in the Disco, it became immediately apparent that the shocks were maxing out and hitting their internal stops over any kind of a speed bump. The result was a harsh departure over speed bumps and it nearly rattled our teeth out when we drove on gravel until we got the extended shocks. Installing the extended shocks, they were no longer bumping against their internal stops and the ride immediately smoothed out. I would like to see an even longer shock, in order to allow for further articulation, however, every inch you add to the max length, you add a half inch (approx) to your compressed length, unless you want to fiddle around with different mounting points and angles.

I've seen some mounting kits, which move the upper shock mount downwards by 2" so you can use a standard length shock with 2" extended suspension. Or do a 4" lift with 2" extended shocks, or use them with 2" extended shocks to increase your downward articulation, remembering that by doing so you are limiting your upward articulation.

Also there are several companies that have extreme kits that move the shock mount upwards to avoid the limiting of upward articulation while installing a super-long shock to allow for maximum downward articulation.

Basically boils down to how much you want to spend...

Dave

[HeadDamage]

I'm thinking of finding an off the shelf longer shock for the rear and welding up my own higher mount. Any ideas on which shocks to look at?

[DaveB]

I'd suggest the Rancho 9000X series from http://www.gorancho.com. These are real popular with the J**P guys, come in a wide range of sizes, including being specced out for Land Rovers and are adjustable with 9 different settings. I'm replacing the shocks on my IIa next spring and doing the same thing, extending the mounts to give me a longer travel, and I'm gonna buy these. The pricing is not that much higher than other brands, provided you don't go crazy with remote resouvoirs, remote adjustments and the like.

Dave

[DaveB]

A couple of further thoughts... if you want maximum travel and don't need 9 way adjustability, save yourself a bit of money and go with the RS5000 series. Due to having no adjusters, they travel about an inch longer when compared with the same part number in the 9000 series. It's actually the 5000s I'm going with on the series truck.

Also, you might want to download not only their vehicle catalog, here, but their shock spec guide here, as this allows you to look up the proper number of shock for your truck, then look in the spec guide to see what ends it has (my series uses L3 on both ends, for example), then you can look down the list at all the other variations of sizes available with the mountings you need for your custom setup.

Dave

[HeadDamage]

Well it looks like if I use a 16" collapsed lenght shock and raise the rear shock mount by 2" then I wil have a 10.5" travel shock VS. the stock 8.5" travel. This is what I'm looking for when I see +2".

[HeadDamage]

These could be the ticket....

Procomps that will fit the front:

part number/extended/compressed/travel

926560/ 25.8/ 15.4/ 10.4

and for the rear:

926573/ 26.8/ 16.4/ 10.4

These look like they would work great with either higher mounts or dropped bumpstops :)

[DaveB]

Sounds like those could work.

Two other things to consider...

1. The more inboard you mount your shocks, the less travel required to get a specific articulation at the wheel. Case in point, all those Toyotas that have them mounted inboard and the tops centred in the frame, with the bottoms mounted by the axle spring hangers. Only thing is, the closer to centre, the less absorption they are able to do.

2. If you have bushing/eye mounts, consider changing the mounts to mount them parellel with the frame (front to back) rather than perpendicular to the frame (side to side). By doing this, the eye and rubber bushing will not bind under heavy articulation, thus increasing your suspension's flexibility. It used to be that www.gon2far.co.uk had an article on it, but their website is under redevelopment, but I haven't found another one yet.

Dave

[HeadDamage]

I see what you mean about the eye mounting.