.. Thought I'ld spend a relaxing Sunday re and re'ing the steering box before the new engine goes in. Procedure in the maual looked about as easy as possible particularly with all that space available.
Hm.
Box came out OK, but the 'drop arm' or pitman arm didn't want to come off the spline. Haynes blithly described putting a suitable three armed puller and drawing arm off the box shaft. OK. I can do that.... Tried it on the bench. Destroyed a good three arm puller. Got a cast pitman arm puller, soaked the joint for an hour in kero, heated the thing smoking hot. Used the new puller, tapped with hammer as I went. Repeated heating a pulling several times. Won't budge. Is this normal for a defender?
Other related question: How is the ball joint conncting the drag link and drop arm lubricated? Can't see a zerk and there appears to be no lube reference in the manuals.
JD
Steering Box Removal
-
red90
- Defender of the World
- Posts: 1509
- Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 7:19 pm
- Location: Calgary
Sounds like you tried everything I would. Are you using a BIG hammer?? Don't be shy. Lots of torque on the pitman arm puller? The nut is off :lol: (just kidding).
The normal tie rod ends are "lubricated for life" as per any modern ball joint. I think most companies lost the grease fittings because people over greased and this damaged the sealing boot leading to failure. There are aftermarket ones that have grease fittings. IME, if the sealing boots are in good shape, they do last.
The normal tie rod ends are "lubricated for life" as per any modern ball joint. I think most companies lost the grease fittings because people over greased and this damaged the sealing boot leading to failure. There are aftermarket ones that have grease fittings. IME, if the sealing boots are in good shape, they do last.
-
JD
Venting my spline
Red90,
Thanks for your vote of confidence. I'll try a bigger hammer (it was a small hammer) or go downtown to a shop which might stock the mother of all pullers.
Ball joint a bit stiff so I guess it's time to replace.
Cheers
JD
Thanks for your vote of confidence. I'll try a bigger hammer (it was a small hammer) or go downtown to a shop which might stock the mother of all pullers.
Ball joint a bit stiff so I guess it's time to replace.
Cheers
JD
-
John
- Cylinder bore
- Posts: 469
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 8:37 pm
- Location: Langley, BC
Correct Harv, unless the joint is rusted or shows other signs of why it would be abnormally tight the joint should be stiff. It is typically when they get sloppy that they need replacing.
JD did you get that drop arm off? Those things can be a b!tch. If you have a puller under tension make sure you stay clear in case it comes loose, they typically do so with a thunderous BANG! I would not use anything smaller than at lease a 2lb hammer for the necessary persuasion and maybe even a sledge.
JD did you get that drop arm off? Those things can be a b!tch. If you have a puller under tension make sure you stay clear in case it comes loose, they typically do so with a thunderous BANG! I would not use anything smaller than at lease a 2lb hammer for the necessary persuasion and maybe even a sledge.
-
JD
Spline venting
I went for proffessional help. My torch couldn't get the face of the thing quite hot enough. Furtunately I have a good automotive customer who will help out occasionally with these things. I put it back on with a socket and bar. I thought if it ever has to come off again soon I wouldn't want to go through all of that again. The ball joint being just a little stiff and not sloppy got reused.
Thanks for all the interest.
Cheers
JD
Thanks for all the interest.
Cheers
JD