D1 rear prop shaft flexi-coupling replacement

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Amadreas · #1 Post by **Amadreas** » Sat May 15, 2021 11:35 am

I'm wanting to change the rubber swivel bushing (rear rubber flexi-coupling) between the rear drive shaft and rear diff. Is it a simple unbolt the old old and pop in the new one? Or is there more to it?
Thanks

Tony4921 · #2 Post by **Tony4921** » Sun May 16, 2021 10:02 am

You have to drop the whole shaft, as the centre of the "donut" joint is on a pilot bearing.So to remove it you must drop the front flange off the handbrake drum first. Not too bad a job really.

rgallant · #3 Post by **rgallant** » Sun May 16, 2021 11:51 am

Doing mine next weekend too, just remember to look at the arrows on the installed one 1st - take a pic, they matter. The pilot bearing if you need to change it can be a real bear to get off. If everything goes well figure about a 1.5 to 2 hours, you may as well look a the had brake pads while you are in there.

Amadreas · #4 Post by **Amadreas** » Sun May 16, 2021 5:43 pm

Tony4921 wrote: Sun May 16, 2021 10:02 am You have to drop the whole shaft, as the centre of the "donut" joint is on a pilot bearing.So to remove it you must drop the front flange off the handbrake drum first. Not too bad a job really.

Really! All that? The RAVE makes it sound so simple…

rgallant · #5 Post by **rgallant** » Mon May 17, 2021 10:03 am

@amadreas the problem is the rubber on the bushing gets stuck then the damm thing will not come off. It should be 30 minutes and done, but I always expect quirks.

Amadreas · #6 Post by **Amadreas** » Mon May 17, 2021 10:10 am

Thanks Richard. BTW I liked you article updating the D2 thermostat in the current newsletter issue.
I spent last Friday replacing all four shocks on the D1. In my head I was excepting to be done in 2 hours. It was closer to 4 hours, including tire swap and rear brake pad change. I think my arms are 3 inches longer now.

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rgallant · #7 Post by **rgallant** » Tue May 18, 2021 8:58 am

Yea it took me most of the of the day to do my shocks. If the centering bushing for the rubber donut is the same as a D2 the rubber center kind "welds" itself to the shaft, like an old rad hose. That is the big slow down,other than dropped wrenches, stuck bolts/nuts you know the usual stuff.

Amadreas · #8 Post by **Amadreas** » Tue May 18, 2021 9:14 am

D1 shocks ends are different from D2. D1 only have the single nut onto the shock ends. My main difficulties was loosening the top nut from the old shock shaft to get the shock tower off from the old shocks. Mine you the rear shocks removal and installation were the easiest.

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The Rover-Landers of BC

The Rover-Landers of BC