How bad is your clunk?

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discojonny · #1 Post by **discojonny** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:56 pm

So I have been driving my 110 for a while now and it has the clunk. I have replaced the ujoints and it is better but still there. I tried locking the diff last night and the clunk dissapeared. Any one have any thoughts on what it coud be?

And how much driveline slop are the rest of you experiencing?

Dave_F · #2 Post by **Dave_F** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:18 am

Could be worn splines in your rear driveshaft :?

discojonny · #3 Post by **discojonny** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:21 am

I was thinking that. lots of advice about worn splines out there. I am also thinking it might be the ball joint on the rear axle. I have been noticing the clunk going over big bumps as well. how is yours? much slop in the driveline?

Dave_F · #4 Post by **Dave_F** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:05 pm

After a run up to the Whipsaw and having my difflock pop out a few times on steep hills, I had the clunk.:oops:

Since I had Don at Rovertech replace all my U-Joints (it was raining and my garage is full of Series 1''s)...the truck is nice and tight.

Put it in Neutral and crawl underneath and twist the driveshafts to see if you have any play...make sure you are on flat ground :shock:

Speaking with Kris and Pete...U-joints are a common item to keep an eye on as they are considered "consumables" :lol: :lol:

Could be splines in the d-shaft...but you should be able to feel the play if so.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Bill E. · #5 Post by **Bill E.** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:26 pm

Hey Jonathan,
Clunks can be frustrating I know, driveline slop or lash is significant with all that machinery rotating and not easy to isolate where there is too much. Her is a list of my clunk history.
The aforementioned u-joints- consumable and really should be assessed with the wheels off the ground.
Drive-shaft splines-mine resulted in more vibration than clunking.
Ball joint on rear axle- mine was a low thud rather than a clunk.
Transfer case input gear - this will clunk worse as it gets more sloppy, eventually stripping the mainshaft output splines $$$$
Tie rod and drag-link ends - I was really surprised how much clunking these can cause but pretty easy to repair.
Front Panhard Rod bushings - sometimes the clunk is from the holes in the brackets becoming oval rather than the bushing.
Axle/hockey stick bushings - difficult to pinpoint which is giving the clunk, mine often showed up under deceleration.

HeadDamage · #6 Post by **HeadDamage** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:25 pm

If you have someone you can trust sometimes you can find the clunk by having them drive it forward and backward a bit while you lay down and watch the diff noses (front and rear) for any movement up and down as they load and unload.

ANDYD · #7 Post by **ANDYD** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:52 pm

Hi Jonathon,
I too have a bit of a "clunk" on my 110, It annoyed me at first but I have learned to ignore it. Just put it down to being a 20 year old truck.
I checked the U-joints and they are all fine.
I also had a "clunk" on my 1967 series truck and a "clunk" my 1991 RRC :roll: so business as usual.......
cheers, Andy

discojonny · #8 Post by **discojonny** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:36 am

thanks for all the advice. UJs are good so I will work my way through the rest and hope that it doesn't get any worse or to expensive. I like Andys solution of ignore.

Dave_F · #9 Post by **Dave_F** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:27 am

I am also a strong believer of Land Rover "Faith Healing" :lol: :lol: :lol:

rayhyland · #10 Post by **rayhyland** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:39 pm

if you hear the clunk when you come off the throttle, check the rear A-arm for wear. It's a known clunk point after about 50,000km

Ray

The Rover-Landers of BC

The Rover-Landers of BC

How bad is your clunk?

How bad is your clunk?

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