Removing Rear Shocks

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bf900 · #1 Post by **bf900** » Fri Apr 14, 2017 12:40 pm

I'm replacing my rear shocks because they are leaking. The top nut loosed no problem. However, when I put pressure on the bottom nut it turns the whole strut and won't give. There's a small flat piece of metal material at the very bottom of the strut but even with visegrip on it and a large wrench on the nut doesn't work. What am I doing wrong? Thx B

red90 · #2 Post by **red90** » Fri Apr 14, 2017 1:37 pm

What vehicle? Normally you need to hold the shock on the body with a pipe wrench or water pump pliers. Grab it where it connects to the stud so it doesn't crush the tube.

bf900 · #3 Post by **bf900** » Fri Apr 14, 2017 2:04 pm

Sorry it's a defender 110. Ended up cutting off the nut as it was seized. Pipe pliers, visegrips, leather straps all added to the frustration.

Do you happen to know what this means "it is recommended to remove the metal bush cups found on post 1994 defenders rear axles, removing the metal bush cups will allow unrestricted movement of the lower shock mount".

The new shocks came with 4 lower metal cups (2 per each rubber lower bushing) - are they saying to install the rubber bushings w/o the metal cups? the old shock had two metal cups (top and bottom on the lower mount)?

bf900 · #4 Post by **bf900** » Fri Apr 14, 2017 3:19 pm

Is this correct?
First pic is how it came in box.
I installed using all 4 washers + torqued nut. Axle is supported.

The old shock (same terrafirma) only had two washers (top and bottom). The old rubber mount was touching the metal braket. Not sure if that correct because the shocks only lasted 5 years.

thx

rayhyland · #5 Post by **rayhyland** » Fri Apr 14, 2017 10:37 pm

Some defenders have metal cups on the actual axle. It will interfere with movement when the axle flexes when you change the suspension.

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bf900 · #6 Post by **bf900** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:30 am

My defender doesn't have metal cups. Now I'm wondering if perhaps doesn't need all 4 washers (maybe just top and bottom)??
Doesn't the busing look too compressed?

When I removed the other rear shock absorber... the top inner bushing remained on the upper bracket...seized...looks almost welded on. I walked away and had a scotch. :)

I put heat to the bushing but it didn't budge...I'm concerned about putting the grinder to it so that I don't damage the upper bracket pin but not sure how else to tackle it. Thoughts?

ANDYD · #7 Post by **ANDYD** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 4:58 pm

Hi Bert,

From the photos I think the new bushings are seriously over compressed, they shouldn't bulge out like that. When I changed mine I used all 4 washers. Have you tried backing off the nut a couple of threads?
I will take a photo of mine this afternoon but I'm pretty sure it should look like this (see photo).

Cheers, Andy

PS - my old shocks came off easily but I feel your pain! (Scotch will help!) Like Red90 says, normally you just need to grip the shock body (at the part where its knurled and solid) with a pipe wrench to stop it spinning.

bf900 · #8 Post by **bf900** » Sun Apr 16, 2017 3:48 pm

Hi Andy,

I did back off the nut as much as I could but they still looked overly compressed. So I removed the bottom washer that touches the bottom of the axle and this is what they look like now.... Although the picture doesn't show it, there are two washers on the upper bushing. Any huge issues in not having all 4 washers?

Other than changing the nut to a lower profile one...not sure what else to do.

The shop that installed my old terrafirma 132 shocks only used two washers (top and bottom) and nothing that touched up against the axel. It seemed fine if you accept shocks only lasting 5 years. They both started leaking real bad.

Thanks for being the clubs president! I'm sure we'll see you out on the trails.

B

ANDYD · #9 Post by **ANDYD** » Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:33 am

Hey Bert,

Yes, it looks better now. I don't see any big issue with leaving out the two washers that go up against the axel bracket. I would suggest you check (tighten) them up once you have a few km's on them as they will likely get a little loose after they have worn in a bit.

As far as the old ones failing, that fact that the shocks were leaking internally points to an issue with the shocks inner seals rather than the mounting brackets and rubbers.
You have a heavy truck that you use off-road a far bit so 5 yrs really isn't too bad. Are the new shocks the heavy duty ones (rather than the stock rating)?

Cheers,
Andy

The Rover-Landers of BC

The Rover-Landers of BC